Day 4: Zapatista community of Fray Bartolome

Day 4: Zapatista community

Today we had the opportunity to visit the autonomous Zapatista village of Fray Bartholome. This community is home to nine families.

The Zapatistas are a leftwing group of organized indigenous people.  In 1994 the Zapatista uprising sought to reclaim indigenous ownership of land and local resources, and defend the rights of indigenous people.  In 1996 the Federal government and the Zapatistas reached an agreement called the San Andres Accord.  This accord was intended to protect the rights and further the indigenous people of Chiapas.  The Mexican Government has failed to follow through with many of the responsibilities they signed on to in this accord.  As a result the Zapatistas formed “autonomous communities”.  These communities receive no support or social assistance from the government.  Run by the Zapatistas, they follow their own government system, which they call the Good Government. Made up of members of the community, the central decision making group representatives change every three years.  For more information on the Zapatista movement you can go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zapatista_Army_of_National_Liberation .

We were welcomed to Fray Bartholome by the entire community in their little one-room school house.  We were introduced to all of the community members and thanked them for allowing us to visit.  Zapatista communities are generally closed to outsiders and you need the permission of the Good Government Junta to be welcomed.  The members of the community took the time to share with us what their day-to-day lives are like.  Fray Bartholome is a community that centers around agriculture, and they grow organic corn and beans, squash and peas with local native seeds.  Though they cannot grow enough on their small amount of land to feed the entire community, they are able to exchange goods or services for what they need.  The community is attempting to become self sustaining through increased knowledge of better farming practices.  This training is provided by DESMI, who Horizons of Friendship and in turn OPSEU supports.  The entire community including women and children attend these training sessions.

As a child and youth worker, I was very interested to hear about and witness the lives of the children in this small community.  The children attend school daily where they are instructed in languages, maths, social studies, health, agriculture, history and science.  All of the children are taught together in the same classroom by an “education promoter” from the Junta. School supplies are scarce as the community has very little money to purchase them, so I was glad I could bring some to help out.  After school the children are involved in taking care of the house, child care, cooking and working the land. 

After the talk at the school, our delegation was taken on a tour of the community by the leaders and adults. I got side-tracked playing games and picking flowers with the children. As a result, I think Emily and I got the best tour. The children were very proud of where they live and enjoyed showing us their homes and livestock. They also had fun attempting to teach me the name of everything in Spanish. Although the children could not speak English and I can’t speak Spanish we were able to communicate just fine with gestures and smiles. I sang songs to them and taught them some hand games. I was sad to leave as I was having such a good time. The visit ended with hugs, laughs and smiles. It was endearing that as I left the children were running up to get one last hug or bring me more flowers.

The community as a whole was extremely grateful for our visit and the support we provide through the work of DESMI.  One thing in particular helped me to understand the importance of the work done through the OSPEU Social Justice Fund and partner organizations. They said “it gives us strength to know we are not alone. People in neighbouring communities have seen that you came to visit us here. All around us people know we have international support. Thank you.”  

Kaylan Bartholomew

Day 3: DESMI

It was sunny this morning as we arrived at a cobblestone street of brightly painted buildings in downtown San Cristobal de las Casas to visit DESMI.

DESMI works together with hundreds of indigenous communities, supporting worker collectives and educating about human rights. Their work focuses on protecting sustainable, organic food production.

A recent project which OPSEU supported involved helping a coffee cooperative to successfully achieve certification for their organic and fair trade practices, which in turn allows them to receive a better return on production.

"Land belongs to the people who work it," said Emiliano Zapata, after whom Mexico's Zapatista movement was named.

The people of Chiapas face many difficulties as the government is systematically undermining the efforts of Zapatista organizational structures. Where the local autonomous communities are striving to achieve sustainable agriculture through cooperatives and training, the federal government is promoting genetically modified crops and discouraging growing the beans and corn which form the basis of the local diet. This is causing divisive conflicts that often pit members of small communities against each other.

"In spite of difficulties, we continue to live in hope. We are building change by following our own path" says Estella Barco, Coordinator of DESMI.

Emily Visser

Day 2: Education in Chiapas

A public school near Paleque

A child working along side his family at a small food stand

Over the past two days, as we travelled through the town of Palenque and visited cultural sites on the way to San Cristobal de las Casas, I noticed many young school-aged children. Working alongside their parents or apparently by themselves, children as young as only five or six were selling small trinkets or fruit to tourists during school hours. It seemed weird to me to see all these children out and working when they should be in school. This got me wondering about the public school system, access to education and in particular what this means for the indigenous children of Chiapas. 

I questioned our tour guide, Patrick, and was shocked and saddened by what I heard.  In Mexico, schooling is “compulsory” up to grade six. In the larger cites f Chiapas, most children complete grade six and many continue on to secondary school. The majority of Chiapas’ children, especially those from rural communities, are lucky to complete grade three.  School is not easy for these children. Many walk for kilometres on an empty stomach to get to school. This afternoon, as we traveled by bus, we saw many children around the ages of 6-10 walking along side the highway on their way home from class. 

Once at school, supplies are limited and must be shared. Teachers are in short supply and one teacher may teach all of the grades in a single classroom. There are no secondary schools in rural communities. If a child wants to continue beyond grade six they would have to leave their families and travel to a larger city. Once there, they would not be able to find a place to stay or an employer willing to work around a student’s schedule. 

An additional barrier to education for the indigenous people of Chiapas is extreme poverty. Many children must assist their family in earning an income. They learn crafts and trades, sell goods, harvest crops and look after younger siblings. We often saw whole families working, infants strapped to their mother’s back. There is no child care or maternity leave for these families. Not working means not feeding the family, and it is a struggle to afford the basic necessities.   

A positive development in the education system is the result of the San Andres Accords between the Zapatistas and the Mexican government in 1996. These assert that schooling in Chiapas must be provided in indigenous languages to preserve the culture of the people. This is at times a double-edged sword as many communities cannot find qualified teachers who have the required language skills. Unfortunately, although school is compulsory up to grade six, attendance is not enforced.

Kaylan Bartholomew

Palenque historical site

Day 1: Palenque

Beginning the tour with some history and cultural background, the first day included a visit to the awe-inspiring temples of the Mayan site of Palenque. Scaling hundreds of steep stone steps, we admired the intricate carved limestone reliefs and hieroglyphs. Some of the stucco walls and carvings retain traces of the original red and green-blue paint. Surrounded by more than 30 different streams and waterfalls, the original Mayan name for the site was Lacam’ha meaning “place of big water”.

Built in the rainforest, the site is under constant maintenance to hold back the encroaching vegetation. Little black howler monkeys can be heard screeching for miles as they lay claim to the plentiful fruit trees, and we can see them leaping across the tree tops.

Our knowledgeable guide, Patricio, part indigenous and a citizen of nearby San Cristóbal de las Casas, is quick to point out the continued need to protect Chiapas’ cultural history and historic monuments. He also laments the loss of many important historical relics. Many of Palenque’s precious relief sculptures have gaping holes where looters have removed the faces. Tomb treasures have found their way into private collections. International museums have refused to return such priceless artefacts as the crown of quetzal feathers worn by one of the Mayan kings.

Patricio was proud to share with us the accomplishments of these ancestors who ruled at Palenque from approximately 100 to 900 AD. They were astronomers who built an observatory and reflective star-gazing pool, dentists who inlaid the teeth of the elite with jade, and surgeons whose work can be seen in the repaired skull fractures of surviving remains.

The indigenous people of Chiapas are fiercely proud of their heritage, and are struggling to retain their many languages and traditions. This struggle is central to the work here that is being done by many of the agencies supported by OPSEU through Horizons of Friendship.

Emily Visser

The OPSEU Social Justice Fund supports some of the most vulnerable in Africa, the Caribbean, Latin America and Asia. This year's Solidarity Tour visits Chiapas, Mexico.

Kaylan Bartholomew, OPSEU Region 1 Provincial Young Workers Committee Vice-Chair, and Emily Visser, OPSEU Communications Officer, will be meeting with humanitarian agencies in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas from February 6 to February 15, 2012.

The tour is organized by Horizons of Friendship, an international development organization with partner agencies throughout Central America.

Introductions

Introducing Kaylan Bartholomew:

I am the Provincial Young Workers Committee Vice-Chair and representative from OPSEU Region One. Social justice has always been a passion of mine. I volunteered to be the young workers representative on OPSEU's Solidarity Fund Board and Chair of the OPSEU Live and Let Live Fund because I wanted to become more aware of what we do as a union to help those in other parts of the world. There are people who struggle for basic human rights that we as Canadians sometimes take for granted such as access to clean drinking water, adequate health care, education and freedom from harassment based on our sex, race, religion or sexual orientation.

The organization Horizons of Friendship has a long history of support from OPSEU and because of this we are invited to come along on their tours to see first-hand the work they do.  I am very grateful that OPSEU has given me the opportunity to be their representative on this tour. I look forward to sharing my experiences with the membership through this blog and a follow-up report. 

Adios until I update from Chiapas, Mexico, where I will meet in person the people OPSEU members help to support and hear how we are all helping to make a difference in the lives of our brothers and sisters in another part of the world.